If you are new to climbing, you might be overwhelmed by the vast array of climbing protection devices available in the market. Climbing protection devices are essential tools for any climber, and they are designed to keep you safe while climbing.
This guide will give you an overview of the different types of climbing protection devices, how they work, and how to use them.
Introduction to Climbing Protection Devices
Climbing protection devices are specialized tools used to keep climbers safe while they are ascending or descending a rock face or a mountain. These devices work by attaching to the rock and stopping a fall.
Climbing protection devices are available in different shapes and sizes, and it is important to know how to use them correctly to ensure your safety while climbing.
Types of Climbing Protection Devices
There are two main types of climbing protection devices: passive and active. Passive protection devices are designed to remain in place without any assistance, while active protection devices require manipulation to work correctly.
Understanding the Different Types of Climbing Protection Devices
Passive protection devices include nuts, hexes, and chocks. These devices are usually made of metal and are placed in narrow gaps or cracks in the rock. The idea is that the device’s tapered shape allows it to fit snugly into the gap, providing an anchor point that can hold your weight in case of a fall.
Active protection devices include cams and spring-loaded camming devices. These devices work by expanding against the rock, providing an anchor point for the rope. Active protection devices are generally easier to use and more versatile than passive protection devices.
Passive Protection Devices
Passive protection devices, also known as traditional or “trad” gear, are the original form of climbing protection devices. These devices are designed to be placed in narrow gaps or cracks in the rock, where they expand to provide an anchor point that can hold your weight in case of a fall.
1. Nuts
Nuts are small, tapered pieces of metal that can be placed in narrow gaps in the rock. They are designed to fit snugly into the gap, providing an anchor point that can hold your weight in case of a fall. Nuts are lightweight and versatile, and they are a popular choice for climbers who want to climb trad routes.
2. Hexes
Hexes, also known as chocks or hexentrics, are similar to nuts but have a hexagonal shape. They are designed to fit into larger gaps or cracks in the rock and are used in a similar way to nuts. Hexes come in a range of sizes, and some climbers prefer them to nuts because they can be more stable in certain types of cracks.
3. Chocks
Chocks are similar to nuts and hexes but are larger and have a wider surface area. They are designed to be placed in wider gaps in the rock and can provide more stability than nuts or hexes. Chocks come in different shapes and sizes and are a popular choice for climbers who want to climb wider cracks.
Active Protection Devices
Active protection devices, also known as “cams,” work by expanding against the rock, providing an anchor point for the rope. They are generally easier to use and more versatile than passive protection devices.
1. Cams
Cams are designed to fit into cracks in the rock and work by expanding against the rock when weight is applied to them. They are available in different sizes and can be adjusted to fit a range of crack widths. Cams are a popular choice for climbers who want to climb sport routes.
2. Spring-Loaded Camming Devices
Spring-loaded camming devices, also known as SLCDs or “friends,” are similar to cams but have a different design. They have a trigger that, when pulled, releases the cams, allowing them to expand against the rock. SLCDs come in different sizes and can be adjusted to fit a range of crack widths.
Quickdraws and Runners
Quickdraws and runners are essential climbing protection devices that are used to connect your rope to the climbing protection. Quickdraws are composed of two carabiners connected by a short piece of webbing, while runners are longer pieces of webbing used to extend the distance between the rope and the climbing protection.
1. Quickdraws
Quickdraws are used to connect your rope to the climbing protection, and they consist of two carabiners connected by a short piece of webbing. One carabiner is clipped to the climbing protection, while the other is used to clip the rope. Quickdraws are essential for climbing, and most climbers carry several of them.
2. Runners
Runners are long pieces of webbing that are used to extend the distance between the rope and the climbing protection. They are useful in situations where the climbing protection is far away from the rope or where you need to reduce rope drag.
Runners come in different lengths and can be used in conjunction with quickdraws to provide more versatile protection.
How to Use Climbing Protection Devices
Using climbing protection devices correctly is essential to ensure your safety while climbing. Here are some general guidelines for using climbing protection devices:
- Inspect the protection: Before placing any climbing protection devices, inspect them to ensure they are in good condition and are not damaged.
- Choose the right size: Choose the right size of the climbing protection device for the crack or gap you are placing it in.
- Place the protection device: Place the protection device securely in the crack or gap, making sure it is stable and will not move.
- Clip the rope: Clip the rope to the protection device using a quickdraw or runner, ensuring that the rope is not twisted and is properly positioned.
- Test the protection: Test the protection by putting weight on it before continuing to climb.
- Repeat the process: Repeat the process for each piece of protection you place as you climb.
Cleaning Climbing Protection Devices
Cleaning climbing protection devices is an important part of climbing. When you reach the end of a climb or want to remove protection devices for any other reason, you need to clean them properly to ensure that you don’t damage the rock or leave any gear behind.
1. Removing Protection Devices
To remove a protection device, simply unclip the rope from the quickdraw or runner and remove the protection device from the crack or gap it was placed in.
2. Cleaning Protection Devices
Once you have removed the protection devices, inspect them to ensure they are in good condition. If they are dirty, clean them with a soft brush or cloth and water. Never use harsh chemicals or solvents, as they can damage the protection devices and weaken their strength.
Related: Must-Have Indoor Rock Climbing Safety Equipment
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Here are some frequently asked questions about climbing protection devices:
1. How many pieces of protection do I need for a climb?
The number of protection devices you need for a climb depends on the length and difficulty of the climb. As a general rule, you should aim to place protection devices every 10-15 feet on easy climbs and every 5-10 feet on more difficult climbs.
2. How do I choose the right size of protection device?
Choose the right size of the protection device for the crack or gap you are placing it in. Test the fit by placing the protection device in the crack or gap and giving it a gentle tug to ensure that it is secure.
3. How do I know if a protection device is safe to use?
Inspect the protection device before placing it to ensure it is in good condition and not damaged. Test the protection device by putting weight on it before continuing to climb.
4. How do I clean my climbing protection devices?
To clean your climbing protection devices, inspect them to ensure they are in good condition. If they are dirty, clean them with a soft brush or cloth and water. Do not use harsh chemicals or solvents, as they can damage the devices and weaken their strength.
5. Can I reuse my climbing protection devices?
Yes, you can reuse your climbing protection devices as long as they are in good condition and have not been damaged. Before reusing them, inspect them thoroughly to ensure they are still safe to use.
Conclusion
Climbing protection devices are essential for safe and enjoyable rock climbing. They come in many different types and sizes, and choosing the right ones for your climb is crucial. By understanding the various types of climbing protection devices and how to use them, you can increase your safety and confidence while climbing.
Remember to always inspect your gear before use, choose the right size and type of protection device for the climb, and test each piece of protection before continuing to climb. Happy climbing!